The term “shoulder season” always brings mixed feelings for us; it’s the time between the best conditions for either mountain biking or snow sports.
However, there are always great conditions somewhere, so we refer to late fall and early spring as “getaway season.” Embracing the art of the getaway brings new reasons to welcome changing conditions on the front range, and Patagonia, Arizona, is at the top of our list.
Perhaps no other geography boasts as many inspiring getaways as the desert southwest, drawing thrill-seekers, vortex-healers, conservationists, vision-questers, and, most recently, serious gravel cyclists. A riding itinerary in Patagonia can be tailored for any rider (beginner, intermediate, or advanced) looking for big blue skies, unexpected beauty, and a small-town vibe. This town of fewer than 1,000 residents, nestled in the Sonoran Borderlands, serves up riding, food, and regional interest in perfect proportions for a 3-day weekend, or a longer-term stay.
Patagonia lies one hour south of Tucson International Airport, a quick 18 miles north of the Mexico border. These recommendations will help you make the most of your getaway. Though we’ve ridden much of the region, the route links below were created by other riders and are just an example of the adventures you can put together!
Day 1: Patagonia 50 + Live Music
Settle into the valley on the first day with a middle-distance ride to familiarize yourself with major gravel access points, and leave time to provision yourself. The Patagonia 50 takes you quickly out of town along Harshaw Creek, climbing to stunning views of the San Rafael Grasslands. The route gains a total of 3,022 feet. This classic loop is an ideal introduction to the area.
Photo Credits: Freihofer Photography
We love, love, love the Red Mountain natural food store. But like life in an 80s country song, they roll up the street when the sun goes down. Red Mountain is open 10:00am to 5:00pm every day of the week (early birds welcome at 9:00am) and they only take cash, so plan ahead for provisions. You’ll be blown away by the selection: allergen-conscious, vegetarian, and vegan eaters will find lots of options.
When evening arrives, head to the other end of the main drag, where The Cyclist’s Menu founders Zander and Heidi Ault opened the Patagonia Lumber Co. just under one year ago. The Lumber Co. has become one of Patagonia’s living rooms, bringing together locals, travelers, weekenders from Tucson, and anyone else passing through for music, exceptionally curated regional beers and wine, and—if you’re lucky—authentic tamales. Pop in to pick up a gravel guide to the county, with loads more riding ideas. Check the weekend music and food truck schedule online.
Photo Credit: Freihofer Photography
Day 2: Almost to Mexico + Designer Pizza
This San Rafael-Lochiel-Harshaw route provides a great description of a backcountry tour of the Canelo Hills, which grazes the border at the Lochiel townsite. We’ve seen similar routes labeled “Almost to Mexico.” The loop can be connected to Patagonia via Harshaw Creek. The route through the Canelo Hills circumnavigates the San Rafael State Natural Area, the largest remaining expanse of native grassland in the American southwest. For an alternative 100-mile route, follow the course of the 2021 Spirit World 100 gravel event.
Time to refuel. Velvet Elvis has been on the radar of travelers and foodies since first opening in the late 1990s. The craft pizza establishment recently moved to its new home in Patagonia’s historic mission church on McKeown Ave. The namesake painting of Elvis (on velvet, of course) presides over the dining room while you enjoy beautiful handmade pizzas, salads, and stromboli. With 24-hour notice, the chef will prepare the designer Inca Quinoa Pizza for six—an artisan blend of quinoa and wheat flours, stuffed with layers of sauteéd vegetables, herbs, cheeses, and a roasted tomato wine sauce baked in a cast iron skillet.
Photo Credits: Ruth Hager
Day 3: Short Ride + Wineries OR Lake Patagonia State Park
Spin out your legs after the previous day’s adventure with an out-and-back toward Mount Wrightson on Temporal Gulch Road. This road takes you past access to a new section of the Arizona Trail (AZT), a masterpiece of trail building, which we got to pre-ride in April of 2022 with the Arizona Trail Association. This new single track eliminates 16 miles of road, connecting the AZT from the south to the trail in Gardner Canyon. Our bucket list still includes a return trip to Arizona to bike pack additional sections of the 800-mile AZT, a designated National Scenic Trail.
Photo Credit: Freihofer Photography
You’ll wrap up your morning ride with plenty of time to play, either touring local wineries or relaxing at the lake. Yes, we did say wineries. The villages of Sonoita and Elgin—13 miles from Patagonia—were the first designated American Viticultural Area (AVA) in Arizona. In the early 1970s a soil scientist named Dr. Gordon Dutt conducted a vineyard study, and surprised winemakers with his discovery that grapes flourish in the warm growing temperatures and water-retaining soil, making the region the highest elevation AVA in the United States. The highly regarded Callaghan Vineyards and Dos Cabezas Wineworks are among a dozen or more vintners offering tastings in the area.
Photo Credits: Circo Vino
If wineries are not your pace, an afternoon at Lake Patagonia State Park offers fishing, swimming, boating, or SUP. The lake is well-managed to limit the use of motorized personal watercrafts, ensuring a peaceful place to play!
If you’re like us, three days will not feel like enough time, and you will have uncovered enough hidden corners in and around Patagonia to draw you back to this special town over and over again.
Lodging Recommendations
There are a lot of lovely, well-managed Airbnbs within walking distance of central Patagonia, or nearer the lake with loads of open space. Some dispersed camping areas can be found in the Coronado National Forest; however, we haven’t camped there yet.
In Town
Open Space
Camping
Photo Credit: Freihofer Photography
Gear Considerations
Luggage: Southwest Airlines offers nonstop flights to Tucson, and it costs $75 each way to bring your bicycle as a piece of luggage. There are lots of bike bag options on the market, many specific to drop bar bikes. We recommend the EVOC mountain bike bag because we can use it to travel with either our gravel bikes or a full suspension mountain bike. We have packed an XL full suspension bike with 29” wheels in the EVOC with minimal disassembly. Among the gear investments we have made in the past year, these bags are at the top of the list.
Tires: The flint rock and cacti of the San Rafael Valley have one mission: to eat your tires. The right tire really makes a difference anywhere in Arizona, and after testing several different brands and talking to local riders, we recommend the Kenda Flintridge or Alluvium Pro.
Clothing: Patagonia is usually 15–20 degrees cooler than Phoenix, and 8–10 degrees cooler than Tucson. During “getaway season” the nights and early mornings will be cool, and the days warm and wonderful. Pack with appropriate layers.