By: Kristen Smith
Most commonly known amongst mountain bikers for it’s TranSierra Norte Race, Oaxaca has so much to offer in addition to epic riding. This vibrant Mexican city is full of bold flavors, bright colors, beautiful murals and mezcal made by the locals. Cheap flights make Oaxaca a must-see destination for the mountain biker who wants more than just great riding.
Where to Stay
The Ride by TransSierra Norte is an all inclusive outfit for the no fuss traveler. This option makes it all too easy to drop in to Oaxaca on the fly with offerings such as airport pickup/dropoff, shuttle service, mountain bike guides, casual hostel style lodging, and an in-house chef. Located in the heart of Oaxaca, visitors can easily explore local murals, historic buildings, restaurants, and bars right outside the front door. Additionally, The Ride has the best trail beta as they build and maintain a lot of trail in region.
Where to Ride
The riding in Oaxaca is seasonal. The best riding can be found after the rainy season wraps up around October, just in time for Día de Los Muertos. Oaxaca has varied trails with huge descents. One local classic called “El Toro” offers over three thousand feet of descending in under three miles. Many trails offer PNW-esque loam and dry, loose desert all in the same descent. Full suspension enduro style bikes are recommended. Here are the highlights.
- Ola Hawaiiana: This flow trail offers wide open turns with a fun steep chute that rises up again giving you a nice G out feeling.
- Puma & Lince: These two trails depart from the same ridge. Both are fun, flowy and a bit rowdy.
- El Toro: A bit more demanding, El Toro features a super fast flow single track followed by steep sections with hairpin bends and low-grip slopes. Enjoy rock gardens and loose steeps surrounded by ferns and wild agave.
- A TranSierra style traverse: Ask your guide for an all day adventure starting at the top of Ixtépeji crossing through communal lands where you can find the perfect mix of trails with loamy turns , rocky sections, steep chutes, pine needle riddled single track all the way down to the city of Oaxaca.
What to Eat
Riding will peak your interest in Oaxaca, however it is the food that will capture your heart.
Oaxaca is famous for its mole and mezcal. Let’s start with the mole. Oaxaca offers 7 moles, but my favorite is mole negro. This thick black mole is made of ground chiles, nuts, chocolate, and other ingredients.
Looking to chase down that mole with some mezcal? Sure, you could buy Mezcal from a store with a nice label but then you’d be doing it all wrong. You need to seek out mezcal made by the locals preferably served from a label-less well loved bottle.
Ditch your Cliff bar and snack on chapulines instead. These toasted grasshoppers are seasoned with garlic, lime juice, chilies and/or salt and will have you diving in for seconds.
Where to Eat
Boulenc: This breakfast and brunch spot is rightfully-so super popular, but well worth the wait. Get there early to get a good spot in line and order the shakshuka. Actually, just order the entire menu. It’s all that good.
Filemón
This rooftop gem is tucked away in a neighborhood, so it is a good option to get away from crowds. By day they offer modern takes on classic breakfast dishes (think chicken & waffles), and at night they offer woodfired pizzas topped with incredibly fresh ingredients.
Sirilo: A restaurant so trendy and bright, you’ll want to lick the walls. This place is great for a post ride cocktail and light bite. You must order the Aguachile verde. Don’t even think of returning back to the states if you don’t order this dish. Pair it with an ice cold Victoria.
La Popular: For dinner, walk to La Popular. Either of their two locations will do. This cheap, yet bold spot will give you endless people watching while you wolf down fuel for tomorrow’s ride.
What to do when you’re not riding
Located at the center of Oaxaca is the Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. This church and former monastery is surrounded by agave, bright vendors, and endless mezcalerias.
Bring home the flavors of Oaxaca by taking a cooking class while you’re there. Visit local markets to pick out the freshest ingredients and drink Victorias as you learn to make your mole.
Take a short ride to San Bartolo Coyotepec to buy barro negro pottery. When you arrive, walk the cobblestone streets and visit the various barro negro studios. There you can watch local artisans making everything from skulls to vases with this traditional black clay.